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The ultimate guide to all things outerwear.
Nothing—and we mean nothing—finishes a fit quite like a jacket or coat. It is the top layer in all senses of the word. The one that brings the whole look together, the one that people see instantly. And there are many, many types: styles for winter, styles for spring, styles for formal occasions, and styles that you just want to wear all the time no matter the scenario. The best option, though, is relative. There's not one end-all, be-all.
There are, however, 10 essentials, 10 types of jackets and coats that every stylish man worth his salt needs to have in his wardrobe—or at least be adequately aware of. Which is why, from sleek bombers to posh peacoats to durable parkas, we have compiled the ultimate outerwear guide. All the styles have great origin stories, all impart a distinct vibe, and all will do exactly what they need to in the climate they made for. So, check out this list, because you may just want to invest in one of each.
In the 1950s, the U.S. Army Corps enlisted Dobbs Industries to create nylon jackets that were lightweight, durable, and water-resistant, so pilots could move freely while being protected from the elements. Thus, the modern bomber took flight. Later, Alpha Industries, an ancillary to Dobbs, began producing bombers for civilians. And since then, the style has been adopted by almost every subculture throughout the decades.
Jean jackets have been around since the 1800s, but the style didn’t truly gain traction until the 1920s, when Levi’s, the purveyor of all things denim, started making jackets for railroad workers and cowboys. Then other labels over the years started making their own versions, using different indigo dyes and silhouettes. Now, the short topper made out of sturdy cotton twill is permanently fixed in the firmament of fashion.
Greasers, Hellhounds, Hells Angels, or anyone who’s ever ridden down the highway in a Harley, alone or part of a club, fully understands the allure of a biker jacket. The silhouette is short and fitted. And the jacket is made of a tough leather, usually in black, and features pronounced hardware in the form of studs and zippers. Schott NYC produced biker jackets in the 1920s, but the standout style, called the Perfecto, really reached the stratosphere when Marlon Brandon wore one in The Wild One. Since then, about every brand has taken the biker jacket for a spin, bringing their own aesthetics to the most devil-may-care topper around.
The chore coat is the ultimate throw-and-go option. It may be the least familiar in the family of toppers, but one that is no less worthy of praise. The style is light and usually a bit boxy, an ideal outer layer for when the cool breeze passes. Button it all the way, and you’ll look spiffy, no question. Or you could open it up and imbue a more relaxed vibe. And lest we forget the pockets, there's a whole mess of them—from to two to three to four sizable front patch pockets, plus interior ones (usually patch, as well) to sweeten the deal.
In the 1930s, Baracuta introduced the G9, reputedly the first Harrington jacket. What began as a lightweight, waterproof, zipped jacket intended for the damp golf courses of England has evolved into the go-to item for men looking to convey a sense of machismo. As years passed, every style legend—from Elvis Presley to Steve McQueen to Daniel Craig—has owned a few. And every brand that caters to the same kind of fellas offers them regularly.
Originally made out of tightly woven gabardine, the trench coat’s resistance to water and wear and tear made it the choice topper for trench warfare—hence its name, and why Burberry manufactured these coats for officers during the First World War. More recently, it has been the preferred coat for the in-between seasons; its lightness and flattering cut are ideal for many occasions. Whether it's with a pair of jeans and sneakers or over a sharp-as-hell suit, you can’t go wrong with this essential.
Once the go-to for naval sailors across the globe, fisherman, and other seafarers, the peacoat started gaining popularity among the masses in the 1970s, thanks in no small part to Robert Redford in Three Days of Condor. The sturdy wool jacket, marked by its double-breasted silhouette with two rows of pronounced, admiral-style buttons and a sizable notch collar, was completely insulating and hassle-free. It was utilitarian, intended to protect men traveling the ocean blue from harsh conditions. But after the biggest movie star at the time wore the topper, it became an emblem of sophistication.
The camel coat is the swankiest of all the outerwear styles. It can be made of wool, cashmere, or blends that have both. The silhouette, too, can be a chesterfield, polo, wrap, duffle, car, or a trench—just nothing too lumpy. All that is required is that color stick to the animal it is named after: a brownish, tan-ish, beige-ish hue. Basically, anything that looks like it’ll camouflage you in the desert.
In the worst of winters, nothing compares to a puffer jacket. Whether it’s stuffed with real goose down (that means it’s grade-A) or something close, you really can’t beat all that insulation. Top that off with a sturdy exterior, preferably nylon, and you’ll be more than prepared to battle the snow, sleet, and whatever else the colder seasons throw your way.
Puffers are great, yes, but if you’re in the market for something sleeker, look no further than the always-reliable parka (also known by some as the anorak). The precursor to the modern style was purportedly invented by indigenous people that lived in the Arctic, so you know it’s up to snuff. They would slather pelts in fish oil to make them water-resistant. Today's versions follow the same idea, but now consist of durable synthetic fibers that coat a layer of insulation without bulking you up.